Sunday, September 21, 2014

9 Courses and a Marriage

Ding!
It all happened so fast. I bought a blazer. I pulled out the necktie and the vest.
There's something you don't see often.
 On Saturday, September 20th, Aala's marriage to Yuko took place. They were going to go all out - a full Japanese ceremony at a 2 Michelin Star restaurant named Hamadaya, that has been serving traditional Japanese food for over a century, geisha, sake, a 9-course meal. You can't even eat at Hamadaya without an invitation. Hell, I've never eaten at any restaurant with even a single Michelin Star. The prestige is wasted on me, but it didn't mean I wasn't grateful.
 And so I met with Aala's posse of French bread at the designated spot, and was guided to the venue in due time, escorted to the waiting room by a squad of overly polite Japanese ladies in kimono, and served tea inside which a single cherry blossom flower floated.
 It was a little overwhelming, despite the calmness of the setting. I did, however, get to play with baby Leon, who I hadn't seen in quite a bit.

The bride doesn't want to be seen in social media.
The ceremony itself was efficient, peaceful. As opposed to the giant flagrant wedding halls typical of Western (i.e, Christian) weddings, this one took place in a small room with a tatami floor, so typical of Japan's modesty. And in came the couple, resplendent in kimonos white as snow, to exchange their vows, the rings. Yuko in particular had her make-up and dress done up to perfection. Layers upon layers in both cases. They exchanged their vows in each other's language (Aala in Japanese, Yuko in French.) After the vows, we soon proceeded to the dining hall.


 Hand in hand, the couple broke the lid off a barrel of sake, and the feast began. Here, we were served a full on 9 course meal, consisting of no less than:


An entree of small portions of fish (which one, I forget) with vegetables and chrysanthemum petals. Tofu with sea-urchin paste. Fresh water eel soup. Sashimi. Rice and some fish I can't seem to translate. Seasoned spiny lobster. 3 more kinds of fish, pickles, mushroom soup. Fruits and red bean paste made into warm fondue. Forgive my unspecific descriptions. It was all brain-meltingly excellent.
 All the while, speeches were being made by guests called upon by the couple. The bride's parents made their rounds to thank the guests and pour them sake. Truth be told, I was getting pretty tipsy by the time Aala picked me as one of his five guests to make a speech.
The merry misfits.

"I'll pick Sean, my sad looking friend," he said, mistaking my alcohol-induced redness for the face of a crying man. I guess that happens. So I delivered a rather clumsy speech about meeting in the heart of adventure, having had good times, Yuko looking lovely, Aala looking happy, etc.
 Personally, I think Haruka's (Papa Lo's wife) was the best speech of the lot. "Yuko must be the radiant goddess who shall save the world, if she can marry Aala." That was gold.

 And then came the geisha. Two of them to be precise.
 Let me tell you what you won't see if you visit Tokyo: geisha. Geisha are an ancient tradition, barely seen any more. Kyoto has geisha, sure, but you're as likely to find a lion in Central Park as you are of finding a geisha in Tokyo. And yet here they were, and their ancient dance, accompanied by equally antiquated instrument, held the room in thrall. Here's some of it.


 The festivities soon drew to an end, and I gave my last congratulations to the parents and the couple before heading home with Papa Lo, Haruka, and little Leon. We blew raspberries all the way home, and my body crashed on the bed and I napped out my splitting headache. Curse you, sake!

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